It was one of those dreaded 5am starts that you only agree to before fully grasping the implications of what you’ve just agreed to. We were on our way to see the My Son ruins, which are around an hour out of Hoi An. On the way our guide offered to take us to the local fish market, so we parked up our motorbikes to explore the early morning scene. From the moment we entered the crowd we were lost in the flurry of activity. A woman hurls a large container of fishy meltwater over my foot as another carrying a large basket of small silver fish elbows me out of her way. For the first time in Vietnam we were invisible.